Best Dog Brushes by Coat Type: Slicker, Pin, Bristle, Rake and More
Updated October 27, 2026
This guide is for dog owners who are staring at a wall of brushes and want to know which one their dog actually needs. It explains what each main brush type does (slicker, pin, bristle, undercoat rake, deshedding tool, steel comb and rubber curry), matches them to the six dog coat types we use on this site, and suggests how often to brush each coat.
The short answer: pick the brush for the coat, not the size of the dog. Short coats do well with a rubber curry and a bristle brush. Double coats need something that reaches the undercoat (a rake or a deshedding tool), and long, curly and silky coats need a slicker plus a steel comb to check that you have brushed all the way down to the skin. Most owners end up with two or three tools, not one.
How we wrote this: the advice comes from the veterinary and animal welfare sources linked in the text. Product mentions use brand specs and named, linked reviews. We have not tested these products ourselves, and this page has no affiliate links.
Why the right brush matters
Brushing removes dirt and dead hair and gives you a regular look at your dog's skin. The American Kennel Club notes that consistent brushing helps control shedding, and that mats tend to form behind the ears and under the legs, so those are the spots to check first. The wrong tool either skims over the top of the coat (so tangles build up underneath) or, on a thin coat, scrapes the skin.
The goal on every coat type is the same: work gently down to the skin, a section at a time, until the brush or comb passes through without catching. The AKC advises working all the way down to the skin with gentle strokes.
The main brush types, explained
Slicker brush
A slicker has a flat or curved head packed with short, fine wire pins, usually bent at an angle. It is the workhorse for removing tangles and loose hair. The AKC recommends slickers for medium, long, wire and curly coats, and warns to keep a light touch, because pressing hard can hurt your dog. Longer-pinned slickers reach deeper into thick curly coats, while short-pinned ones mostly smooth the surface.
Pin brush
A pin brush looks like a human hairbrush: widely spaced wire pins, often with rounded or rubber tips, set in a cushioned pad. The AKC describes it as a finishing brush for long-coated breeds, to smooth the hair and lift out dirt, and says it can also help work through tangles on wire coats. It is gentler than a slicker but will not pull out a real mat.
Bristle brush
A bristle brush has dense natural or synthetic bristles. According to the AKC, it suits short coats, including short silky coats, where it removes loose hair and dander, and it works as a finishing brush on double-coated breeds to smooth the coat and add shine. On a long or curly coat, a bristle brush alone just glides over the top.
Undercoat rake
A rake has one or two rows of long, widely spaced metal teeth that reach through the outer coat and pull out loose undercoat. The AKC recommends rakes for double-coated breeds of every coat length and stresses picking a pin length that matches your dog's coat length. A rake is the main tool during heavy seasonal shedding.
Deshedding tool
A deshedding tool has a fine-toothed steel edge that slides under the topcoat and lifts out loose undercoat. It removes a lot of hair quickly, but it is easy to overdo. FURminator, for example, says on its product page to use its tool 1 to 2 times a week for 10 to 20 minutes on a dry coat, to remove mats first, and not to use it on non-shedding breeds or pets with particularly sensitive skin.
Steel comb
A metal comb with two tooth spacings (wide at one end, fine at the other) is the tool that tells you whether your brushing worked. After brushing a section, run the comb through from the skin outward. If it snags, there is still a tangle there. Groomers lean on combs for long, silky and curly coats, and for fluffing feathering on the legs and tail.
Rubber curry brush
A rubber curry has short rubber nubs or fingers that you rub in circles. It loosens dead hair and dirt and gives a massage at the same time. The AKC says rubber brushes are for short-coated dogs and can be used wet or dry, so many owners also use one to work shampoo in at bath time.
Which brushes for which coat type
Use this table as a starting kit. The brushing frequencies come from the ASPCA and the AKC; your own dog's coat, activity and shedding season may mean brushing more often.
| Coat type | Example breeds | Main tools | How often |
|---|---|---|---|
| Short | Boxer, Beagle, Dachshund (smooth) | Rubber curry, then bristle brush | About once a week |
| Double | Labrador, German Shepherd, Husky | Undercoat rake or deshedding tool, slicker, bristle brush to finish | Weekly, more often in shedding season |
| Curly | Poodle, Bichon Frise, doodles | Long-pin slicker, steel comb | Several times a week to daily |
| Wire | Schnauzer, Wire Fox Terrier, Border Terrier | Slicker, pin brush, steel comb | A few times a week |
| Long | Collie, Bernese Mountain Dog, Shih Tzu | Slicker, pin brush, steel comb (rake if double coated) | Daily or close to it |
| Silky | Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese, Cocker Spaniel | Slicker for tangles, bristle or pin brush, fine steel comb | Daily |
Short coats
The ASPCA suggests brushing a smooth, short coat about once a week: loosen dead skin and dirt with a rubber brush, then sweep the loose hair away with a bristle brush. Short coats rarely tangle, so the job is mostly about shedding and shine. If a short-coated dog sheds heavily, a deshedding tool sized for short hair can help, used within the maker's limits.
Double coats
Double-coated dogs have a soft, dense undercoat under a coarser outer coat. Brushing only the top layer leaves the loose undercoat packed in, which is how hot, matted patches start. The AKC reminds owners to brush the undercoat as well as the topcoat. Use a rake or deshedding tool for the undercoat, a slicker for any tangles around the ears, collar and hindquarters, and a bristle brush to finish. Our double-coated deshedding guide covers shedding season, bathing and drying in detail.
Curly coats
Curly coats (poodles, bichons and most doodles) do not shed much, so loose hair stays in the coat and tangles fast. A slicker with long pins, used in small sections from the skin out, does most of the work, and a steel comb confirms each section is clear. Skip deshedding tools here: they are not designed for non-shedding coats. For step-by-step line brushing, see how to groom a doodle at home.
Wire coats
Wire coats are harsh and springy on top. The AKC points to slickers and pin brushes for wire-coated dogs, and a comb for the beard and leg furnishings. Many terrier owners also have the coat hand-stripped or use a stripping knife to keep its texture; the AKC lists stripping knives among the tools certain coats need. If you are not sure how your terrier should be kept, ask a groomer or the breed club.
Long coats
Long coats range from flowing single coats to long double coats like a Collie's. The AKC says long-coated breeds often do best with daily brushing. Work in layers: lift the hair, brush the section underneath with a slicker, comb through, then let the next layer down. A pin brush is a good finishing tool, and a rake helps if the long coat is also double.
Silky coats
Silky coats (Yorkies, Maltese, Cockers) are fine and slippery, with little or no undercoat, and tangle easily at friction points. The ASPCA recommends daily attention for long, silky coats: remove tangles with a slicker, then go over the coat with a bristle brush. A fine-toothed comb is handy on the face and ears. Go gently, because the skin under a fine coat is easy to scratch.
Brushing should never hurt. If you find sores, redness, hot spots, a lump or a sore spot your dog guards, stop brushing that area and see your vet. Tight mats against the skin are a job for a groomer: forcing a brush through them pulls the skin, and the ASPCA cautions that if you clip out dense mats, you must keep well away from the skin.
How to brush, step by step
- Pick a calm time, ideally after a walk, and set your dog on a non-slip surface at a height that is comfortable for you.
- Run your hands over the whole coat first to find tangles, burrs and any sore spots.
- Start with the tool that does the heavy lifting for your coat type (curry, rake, deshedding tool or slicker), working in the direction the hair grows.
- Work in small sections, from the skin outward, with light strokes. Let the pins do the work instead of pressing down.
- Check each section with a steel comb (on long, silky, curly and wire coats). Go back to any spot where the comb catches.
- Pay extra attention behind the ears, in the armpits, around the collar, on the belly and the back of the legs.
- Finish with a bristle or pin brush to smooth the coat, then give a treat and end on a good note.
Short, frequent sessions beat a single long one, especially for puppies and dogs that dislike being handled.
Our picks
Chris Christensen Big G Slicker Brush, Large
Best for curly, long and thick double coats where a short-pin slicker only skims the surface. The brand lists 27mm stainless steel pins with 30% more pins than its Big K slicker, a flexible cushion pad and a long handle, and names poodles, doodles, bichons and double-coated breeds as target coats. It is a lot of brush for a short or thin coat.
Chris Christensen 7.5" Fine/Coarse Greyhound-Style Buttercomb #000
Sources: specs, NBC Select
The comb to pair with any slicker on long, silky, curly or double coats. It has a coarse end at 8 teeth per inch and a fine end at 11 teeth per inch, with rounded teeth that the brand says glide without snagging. NBC Select named it its best dog comb, citing professional groomers.
FURminator Undercoat deShedding Tool, Large Dog, Short Hair
Sources: specs, NBC Select
For large dogs over 50 pounds with short, dense double coats, such as Labs. The stainless steel edge reaches through the topcoat to remove loose undercoat, and a FURejector button pushes the hair off. Follow the brand's limits (1 to 2 times a week, 10 to 20 minutes, dry coat) and do not use it on non-shedding breeds.
KONG ZoomGroom Dog Brush
Sources: specs, NBC Select
A soft rubber curry for short coats, with fingers about 3/4 inch long. KONG designs it for dry brushing in circles and for scrubbing shampoo through a wet coat, so it pulls double duty in the bath. It does little for long, curly or matted coats.
Mistakes to avoid
- Buying one brush for every coat. A bristle brush alone will not reach a double or curly coat, and a slicker is more than a short coat needs.
- Brushing only the top layer. Tangles and loose undercoat hide next to the skin.
- Pressing hard with a slicker or going over one spot again and again, which can cause brush burn.
- Using a deshedding tool on a non-shedding or curly coat, or on mats.
- Waiting until the coat is matted. Little and often is easier on both of you.
FAQ
What is the best brush for a dog that sheds a lot?
For a double coat, an undercoat rake or a deshedding tool does the most work, followed by a bristle brush to finish. For a short single coat, a rubber curry plus a bristle brush is usually enough.
Is a slicker brush good for all dogs?
No. The AKC recommends slickers for medium, long, wire and curly coats. On a smooth short coat a slicker can scratch the skin, and a rubber curry or bristle brush is a better choice.
How often should I brush my dog?
The ASPCA suggests about once a week for short coats and daily for long, silky coats. The AKC says most dogs need a few sessions a week, with long-coated breeds doing best with daily brushing.
What is the difference between a pin brush and a slicker brush?
A slicker has short, fine, tightly packed pins that pull out tangles and loose hair. A pin brush has longer, widely spaced pins and is mostly a finishing brush for smoothing long coats.
Do I need a comb if I already have a brush?
For long, silky, curly and wire coats, yes. A steel comb is how you check that you brushed down to the skin, since a brush can glide over tangles that the comb will catch.
Can I use a human hairbrush on my dog?
It may do for a quick smooth on some coats, but it is not designed to reach the undercoat or remove tangles. A brush matched to your dog's coat type does the job faster and more gently.