How to Trim Dog Paw Hair: Between the Pads, Around the Foot and Between the Toes
Updated October 27, 2026
This guide is for owners of fluffy-footed dogs (doodles, golden retrievers, spaniels, shih tzus, poodle mixes and the like) who want to keep paw hair tidy between groomer visits. It covers why to trim, which tool to use, the steps, how often, nervous dogs and which paw problems belong with your vet.
The short answer: brush or comb the foot out, then use a small paw trimmer or small blunt-tip scissors to cut the hair that sticks out past the pads so it sits level with the bottom of the foot. Do not dig deep between the pads or shave the skin. Tidy the outline of the foot with the blade or scissors held flat, go slowly, and stop if your dog pulls away. If you see a cut, a crack that bleeds, swelling or something stuck in the pad, see your vet.
How we wrote this: the advice comes from the veterinary and animal welfare sources linked in the text. Product mentions use brand specs and named, linked reviews. We have not tested these products ourselves, and this page has no affiliate links.
Why trim the hair on your dog's paws?
Many breeds grow long hair around and between their pads. Left alone, it causes a few practical problems.
Ice balls, salt and mud
The American Kennel Club notes that long foot hair can form ice balls between the pads and toes, and advises keeping it trimmed so it is even with the surface of the foot. The ASPCA gives the same advice for winter, saying a trim cuts down on clinging ice balls, salt crystals and de-icing chemicals. If ice balls do form, AKC suggests melting them with a towel soaked in warm water rather than pulling them out (AKC paw care).
Mats, moisture and debris
Hair between the toes mats easily, according to AKC. Wahl's pet clipping guide adds that long hair between the pads can collect mud and ice and, in the worst cases, stop the foot drying properly, which can lead to skin trouble (Wahl pet clipping guide).
Grip on smooth floors
The pads are what grip the floor. When long hair grows over them, some dogs slide more on tile and hardwood, which is a good reason to keep the hair level with the pads, especially for puppies and older dogs. Drying the feet after walks and baths also helps, as PetMD points out.
Cooling in summer
Wahl's guide notes that the pads are one of the few places a dog can sweat, so removing excess hair can help a dog's natural ability to cool down.
Small trimmer or blunt-tip scissors?
Both work. The AKC says small blunt-edge scissors or a small, narrow clipper blade are the tools for the hair between the pads, and that you should use them only after a groomer, breeder or veterinary staff member has shown you how. It also warns that one wrong move from a nervous dog can cause serious injury, so keep household scissors out of it.
| Tool | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Small paw or detail trimmer | Hair between and level with the pads, between toes, quick tidy-ups | Blade heat; angling the teeth into the skin; the noise and buzz |
| Full-size clipper | Outline of the foot on bigger dogs | Wider blade is harder to fit between pads, so it needs more care (Wahl) |
| Small blunt-tip scissors | Rounding the foot, stray hairs, sound-sensitive dogs | Sharp blades even with rounded tips; a dog that jerks its paw |
Wahl's guide calls a compact trimmer ideal for the hair between the pads, around the outside of the foot and between the toes, and says a full-size clipper also works but needs more care because the blade is much bigger. It tells you to keep the flat of the blade parallel to the skin and never angle the teeth into it. Wahl also says hot blades usually mean too little oil or a dull blade, so oil the blade before you start and touch it to your wrist every minute or two.
Safety: never cut a mat out with scissors. The ASPCA warns that a pet can jerk suddenly and end up with a severe cut or puncture. Tight mats between the toes are a job for a groomer or your vet.
Before you start
- Work on a clean, dry, combed-out foot. Wahl says the hair should be dry and free of tangles, and that dirt and grit blunt the blade.
- Charge or plug in the trimmer. A low battery makes the blade pull hair instead of cutting it (Wahl).
- Pick a calm moment, good light and a non-slip surface. A helper who holds and feeds treats makes the first few sessions much easier.
How to trim dog paw hair, step by step
These steps follow the foot routine in the Wahl pet clipping guide, with the conservative pad trim that the Golden Retriever Club of America grooming tutorial teaches.
The hair under the foot (between the pads)
- Have your dog lie on its side or sit facing you. Lift one paw gently and bend it back so you can see the bottom of the foot.
- Comb the hair between the pads downward and outward so the long hair stands out past the pads.
- Place your thumb under the large pad and press lightly upward to spread the pads a little.
- With the trimmer blade flat against the pads, run it across the bottom of the foot to cut the hair level with the pads. With scissors, lay the blades flat against the pads, tips pointing away from the skin, and snip only what sticks out.
- Stop there. The GRCA tutorial says not to scoop out the hair from deep between the pads, and AKC's winter advice is to keep it even with the surface of the foot. The skin between the pads is thin and easy to nick.
Between the toes and around the foot ("teddy bear feet")
- Turn the paw right side up. Spread two toes with your thumb and forefinger and trim the long hair between them, keeping well clear of the webbing between the toes (Wahl).
- With the foot flat on the table or floor, trim the hair around the edge of the foot so nothing drags on the ground. Wahl suggests working along the sides of the foot from the toes to the end of the nails and stopping at the ankle.
- For a rounded "teddy bear" foot, comb the hair up, then scissor or trim around the foot in a smooth curve, following the shape of the toes.
- Finish with scissors on any stray hairs, as Wahl suggests, then let your dog stand so you can see how the foot looks on the floor.
- Give a treat, then move on to the next paw. If your dog has had enough, the other feet can wait until tomorrow.
Do not shave the pads bare. PetMD notes that shaved paws leave bare skin exposed to corrosive de-icing salt, which irritates it and makes dogs lick their feet. Level with the pads is enough.
If you are trimming nails in the same session, see our guide on how to trim dog nails. Trimming the paw hair first makes the nail easier to see.
How often should you trim paw hair?
It depends on how fast your dog's coat grows. Many long and curly coated dogs need a tidy every few weeks, and checking the feet whenever you trim nails is an easy habit, since Humane World for Animals suggests most dogs need nail trims every three to four weeks. Wahl describes paw trims as interim maintenance between salon visits for dogs that see a groomer. Trim more often in snowy months or burr season, and check the feet after every walk on trails or salted sidewalks. For curly coats, our goldendoodle grooming guide covers feet as part of the full routine. For double coated breeds, the feet are part of the tidy-up in our deshedding guide.
Trimming paw hair on a nervous dog
Feet are sensitive. VCA Animal Hospitals notes that dogs have more nerve endings in their feet and toes than on other parts of the body, and recommends teaching paw handling in small steps before any tool comes out.
- Slide your hand down the leg to the paw instead of grabbing it, and give a treat each time you change the paw's position (VCA).
- Keep sessions very short: VCA suggests a few seconds at first, then a minute, building to 3 to 5 minutes.
- Let your dog get used to the trimmer's sound and vibration before it touches the foot. Wahl recommends this too.
- Watch for pulling the paw away, panting, tense lips or trying to escape. VCA says to stop and go back to an easier step when you see them.
If your dog panics, bites or cannot hold still, stop. A groomer or your vet can do the trim safely, and AKC also suggests asking a groomer or veterinarian when grooming becomes stressful.
When to see your vet instead
If you find a problem while trimming, do not trim over it.
- Cut or torn pads: VCA advises firm pressure with a clean towel and an emergency visit if bleeding has not stopped within 10 to 15 minutes. Pad wounds heal slowly, so see your vet even for a small one.
- Something stuck in the pad: a splinter, thorn or grass seed that you would have to dig for should not come out at home, per VCA. Your vet can remove it safely.
- Cracked or dry pads: PetMD says to see your vet if cracks bleed, the paw swells, your dog limps, or licks and chews the feet a lot, and to have new cracking checked.
- Redness, swelling, odor or discharge between the toes, which can signal infection.
Our picks
oneisall X2N5 Dog Clippers and Paw Trimmer Kit
Sources: specs, BestReviews
This kit pairs a cordless body clipper with the N5, a compact trimmer for paws, ears and face, and is rated at about 55 to 60 dB for sound-sensitive pets. It is a sensible start if your dog flinches at louder clippers. The blades are detachable and the kit is IPX7 waterproof, but dry and oil the blades after rinsing.
Wahl Professional Animal Arco Cordless Pet Clipper Kit
Sources: specs, BestReviews
A light 7.9 oz cordless clipper that Wahl UK describes as aimed at feet, face and finish work, plus light body clipping on small and medium dogs. Its adjustable 5-in-1 blade covers #9 to #40, and two swappable batteries keep you going. On thin skin between the toes, use a longer setting rather than the close #30 or #40.
Wahl Deluxe U-Clip Pet Clipper Kit 9484-300
Sources: specs, Breeding Business
A corded budget kit with an adjustable #30, #15 and #10 blade, seven guide combs, stainless scissors and a finishing comb, enough for feet and face tidy-ups at home. It is listed for dogs and cats from 1 to 50 lb. Wahl's booklet says to oil the blade before, during and after clipping so it does not run hot.
Mistakes to avoid
- Digging deep between the pads or shaving them bare
- Angling the trimmer teeth or scissor points toward the skin
- Cutting mats out with scissors
- Pushing on when your dog is stressed instead of stopping
- Trimming over a cut, crack or swelling instead of calling your vet
FAQ
Should you trim the hair between your dog's paw pads?
For most long or curly coated dogs, yes, but only so it sits level with the pads. Trimming helps with ice balls, salt, mats and debris. Some vets, including one quoted by PetMD, prefer that owners leave pad hair to a groomer, so if you are unsure, ask a groomer to show you first.
Is it better to use clippers or scissors on dog paws?
A small trimmer is easier and safer for the hair between the pads. Blunt-tip scissors are good for rounding the foot and stray hairs, and quieter for dogs that fear the buzz.
How short should I trim my dog's paw hair?
Level with the bottom of the pads underneath, and just short enough around the edge that nothing drags on the floor. Do not shave down to bare skin.
What if I accidentally cut my dog's paw pad?
Press a clean towel firmly on it. If the bleeding does not stop within 10 to 15 minutes, go to an emergency vet; for any pad cut, VCA advises a vet check, because pads heal slowly.
How do I trim paw hair if my dog won't let me?
Go back to paw handling with treats in sessions of a few seconds, one paw at a time. If your dog still struggles, let a groomer or your vet do it.
For the full tool kit, see our guide to dog brushes by coat type and our dog bathing guide, or browse all our grooming guides.